ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS using ECHL-3 and -3D as examples
The base panel, the covering panel and the heating coil are supplied in separate packages. The standard module length is 2.5m – sections are simply added on after another. Any additional modules (please request during order) will be provided in separate packages.
Adjust and change the length of the base wall panel to wall dimensions using a cross-cut saw. If the skirting board has to pass around a corner, it can be cut to a right angle using a cross-cut saw. At 90° angles, the included mitre pieces can also be used (if included in the order). The entire wall should be fitted with heaters around the baseboard to ensure the corners of the wall also heat up and thus prevent the formation of damp.
Connect the wall panels with the joint connectors and placing all wall panels throughout the room – including corners – and then align.
The holes at 50 cm distances between each other on the base panel (Ø 8.5 mm) serve as a drilling template. Use a drill with an 8-millimetre diameter. Then insert the 8 mm dowels with collars and fasten the cover with 6 x 50 mm screws.
After fastening the base panel to the walls, the next step involves applying plastic brackets. The holes can also be drilled through the panel using a 6-mm drill. Next, the 6-mm dowels are inserted and the plastic bracket is affixed using screws with dimensions of 4 x 40 mm. The pre-drilled holes are spaced at 50 cm from each other. A distance of at least 15 cm should be retained at the end of the wall.
Align the heating coil. Remove the copper slats at points where the plastic brackets will be positioned. Four slats per clip are removed. To do so, use (needle nosed) pliers to remove the slats from the side through a rotary movement away from the heating pipes. Attention: The slats have sharp edges. We recommend using work gloves. Remove as few slats as possible so as not to reduce heating performance unnecessarily.
Place the pipe coils in the plastic brackets. Important: the slat package should be installed in such a way that the larger slat duct is fixed to the wall side. Conventional soldering fixtures or press fixtures for copper pipes can be used for joining.
Connect first and then place into the clips. If required, these can be taken out again to link up with other heating coils.
For lengths > 8m, compensators are to be installed between two heating coils. If there are no opportunities for extending length, such as due to wall projections or connections to the supply system, heating coil lengths of 3 m and above on one side also require a compensator to be built into one corner.
Counter pieces (upper parts of clips) of the plastic bracket are then built into the covering panel. To do so, place the upper clip part lengthwise into the covering panel and then rotate 90° in the bracket position and align. The covering panels are connected to each other using joint connectors. Next, the covering panels are placed exactly onto the plastic bracket and clicked into place by applying pressure with the hand.
End pieces (delivered in pairs: left and right design) for covering the side of the pipe coil are then inserted into the grooves of the covering panel using the strap. For a better hold, slightly bend the straps at the outer edges (red arrow) so they disappear into the groove.
Skirting board heaters can be connected via heat distribution systems, such as underfloor heating, or via a thermostat valve directly on the skirting heater. For the latter, an opening in the covering panel must be created for the thermostat valve.
When screwing in, ensure that the front side of the screw fitting sits vertically, and thus parallel to the covering panel. Connections under plaster with a single room regulator are possible. Combinations with valve radiators are also possible. The maximum length of a heating circuit is 12.5 m for the ECH-3 system, and 7.5 m for the ECHL-3D system. The feed line must be connected to the lower copper pipe.
The connection between the lower and upper pipe of a heating coil can be created using a deflection compensator or via a bracket. A T-piece can also be used to incorporate a bleeding device in so far as there are no other options for bleeding. If a bleed or thermostat valve is built in, it should be ensured that the covering panel can be removed again at a later point in time. Where necessary (e.g. if access is restricted by furniture), the covering panel must be divided (cut-off pieces) in order to allow an opening to be created for future amendments.
How are skirting board heaters mounted?
Installing skirting board heating is extremely simple and thus makes this form of heating ideal for installation in historic/listed buildings. It is not necessary to rip up walls or place water pipes/cables. Space-saving skirting board heaters by Energy-com can be integrated into almost any room without any major reconstruction work and can be used in new-builds or renovation projects on old/existing buildings. The board structure is mounted across the wall using a base wall panel made of powder-coated aluminium and then surrounded by a covering panel. It does not matter whether you opt for a water-fed skirting board or an electric skirting board, because the base panel, covering panel and heating coil in both versions are of the same construction. The heating boards can be installed in just a few short steps. Additional components, such as plastic brackets, end pieces and joint connectors are accessories, which must be requested along with your order.
Connection & Commissioning
The water-fed skirting heater is connected to the hot water system in a similar way to underfloor heating using a distribution system or thermostat valve, while the electric version is simply connected to the mains supply. When selecting a system, you can choose the right wattage level to heat your particular room: for electric heaters, you can have between 125 and 575 watts; for electric models, you can select between 88 and 420 watts. We will gladly provide assistance if you are unsure what wattage is right for you. The electric skirting heater is connected to the radio-controlled room thermostat via a wireless radio control unit and switch socket, which is then used to set and control the desired room temperature.
The heating elements are supplied in lengths of 2.5m and can be cut down to size using a cross-cut saw to any wall dimension, which ensures installation is always simple and the end result will be a perfect match for your room. Mitre pieces are available from our accessories catalogue to help you precisely install heating boards around corners.
Conventional soldering fixtures or press fixtures for copper pipes can be used for joining. The standard colour is “traffic white” (RAL 0916). The panels can also be supplied in any RAL colour of your choosing. This ensures a perfect match with your room’s decor or allows you to create a striking new decorative element using your water-fed or electric skirting heating. If water-fed skirting heaters are being used over more than 15m, a device must be installed between the copper pipes to compensate for the extensive length. A compensation device piece is available from our range.
For detailed information on installing skirting heaters, including useful pictures, please see our assembly instructions.